11 June - Home at last!

   After an unscheduled night in Salt Lake City, flight changes too numerous to count, and a few frayed nerves we are HOME!  John and I reflect that it is both a happy and melancholy occasion to have our trip end.  It is so good to be home and see the family and familiar surroundings.  I love my washer and dryer and I can't believe how gigantic my PC monitor looks!  I have become very used to the Acer netbook!  Our 1750 sq ft house seems huge!  It is sad that our trip, so anticipated, is behind us now but we cherish the memories.  I hope to start compiling my 11 GB of photos for an album tomorrow.  We are unpacked, some gifts given out, kisses and hugs shared, laundry done, and we are blessed and thankful we have a wonderful place to come home to.  Travel stretches your boundaries, educates your mind, changes your outlook, and changes you from within if you let it.  We are grateful for all our experiences that we will mull over for many years to come and thankful we were able to have this wonderful "trip of a lifetime" together. 

10 June - NY-MN-UT, but NOT HOME

   Okay I am not happy.  I am not home.  What a fiasco today!  Certainly things could be worse and I hope they are not tomorrow.  We went to the airport at the appointed time.  Our flight showed ON TIME until it showed "Canceled" - We saw the plane was taken out of service, perhaps it was the American Airlines plane that made an emergency landing?  Who knows.  As soon as I saw this I was on the phone to AA and they rebooked us going to Atlanta, Salt Lake, and then Fresno.  We rushed to a separate part of the airport (by bus).  As we were waiting for the bus we asked an employee how to get to that location, she offered to TAKE us there and help us out!  What sort of miracle was that?  Until that moment I swear there was NO ONE smiling at that airport!  She was such a sweet young woman.  It was quite a hassle to actually GET the boarding passes but we got them.  Now the flight is Minneapolis, Salt Lake, and then Fresno.  We finally got what was needed and then she walked us through security and to our gate.  I have never been treated so kindly.  I was thankful I purchased a cross necklace at the Dublin airport and I fished it out and gave it to her.  She seemed touched and appreciative.  After that flight things did not go as planned.  The transfer in Minneapolis was a snap.  She said she put us on as needing a wheelchair so we would make the flights, but we didn't need that.  We made the gate and time just fine.  It was after we were on the plane there was a problem.  It was unbearably hot on the plane as the ground power had gone so we sat.  Finally this was fixed and we headed to Salt Lake.  However, we were so late that our Fresno flight was gone.  I am too tired to be too upset.  Anyway we have a FREE hotel, taxi, and food so here we are.  We need to leave for the airport by 5:30am to hopefully catch a 7am flight to LAX and then on to Fresno arriving at 11:30am.  I HOPE!!!  I am sure something of more interest must have happened today, but if it did I cannot recall it at the moment!   

 

09 June - Back to the USA - Paris/Dublin/NYC

   We were up and ready to go at the appointed time of 10am.  Our luggage has grown!  If any of our Rick Steves travel buddies see this photo they will laugh.  We used great restraint in "shopping" until we finished the tour but we did have in mind several things we wanted from Southern France, so these things were planned.  Note the bright blue RS bag and how well it expands.  I believe they secretly call this the "Don't Tell Rick" bag. 

   Our shuttle was  due to arrive at 10:30am but when it was close to 11am we had the staff call for us.  Apparently, there was an accident on the freeway and the shuttle was stuck in traffic.  Thankfully the staff called us a taxi and we made it to CDG airport in no time at all.  We checked in and began our wait.  All our flights were on time so that was a blessing for us.  Incidentally, our Aer Lingus flight from Paris to Dublin did not even offer a drink free of charge.  A soda was E$3. water E$2.50.  We were glad we made a sandwich and had our water bottles filled.  Our layover in Dublin was just long enough to spend the last of the Euros we had and off we went.  To our surprise we were served a meal, snack, and beverage on this Aer Lingus flight!  We had the treat of having our own personal TV/Movie screen and a large array of things to watch.  We flew on a lovely 330 Airbus and wondered how this amazing and huge plane could just fall from the sky?  Maybe we should wonder how it stays up there at all?  What a tragic event that was for so many.  I feel we had an overdose of information on that loss since the only channel we could receive in English in Paris was CNN.  Anyway, we are back to the US safe and sound, thankful for that.  We are wondering how we will adjust to the time difference.  They told us here at the hotel that many flights were canceled out of LGA (LaGuardia) today due to storms and such across the country but weather is supposed to clear, so we hope it does. 

 

08 June - Vincennes and Paris

   Our last full day in France.  I remained in a bit of a funk unable to access email and feeling too isolated.   However, John walked to the Internet Cafe that was closed yesterday and it was open and our connections worked just fine there.  He checked our flight information and all things are fine for that.  This is a relief for me.  Later in the day we took the bus to the same Internet Cafe and posted the blog and replied to what emails we could.  I felt so much better then! 

   From there we went into Paris and awaited the lighting of the Eiffel Tower at 10pm.  Actually, it was still a bit light but it was magical we enjoyed that.  I asked a young man to take our photo and then we took a group photo of he and his friends for them.  They were a lovely group of Brazilians!  After that five minute event we walked to a nearby cafe and had a delicious shrimp and avocado salad, our last meal in Paris for now.  We saw the 11pm sparkle and then took the Metro back.  We took a taxi from the Metro back to the Royal Regency because it was too late to walk and now we are headed to bed.  A quiet day but successful too since we had news from home.  

 

07 June Vincennes

    Today we were to go to Giverny, Monet's home and gardens.  We woke up early and began to get ready but just lost energy for the plan.  We are tired, it looks like rain, and we decided we didn't want to spend a combination of four hours on Metro, train, bus, and/or taxi to get there.  I guess it proves we have traveled too long on this trip.  I am personally feeling isolated since I have not even been able to look at my email for five days now.  We decided a better way to spend the day would be lunch at the Australian Bar that has Wi-Fi and catch up on email, also confirming our flight home on the Internet since we can't even call from here without an unknown fee. 

   As to not make it a wasted day the first order of the day was to unpack everything and repack it ready for flying and travel home.  That took until approximately 1pm when we then headed out to have our lunch.  The Australian Bar is a fun place, if you can read the steps each one had a distance to a point in Australia.  The lunch was tasty, the people friendly, the service was good but the overall experience was unsatisfying as far as the Internet.  We were unable to connect to the Internet at the cafe and even though they tried to help us "this happens a lot" so we were unsuccessful.  From there we walked to the McDonald's that we were told had Wi-Fi also.  Here we were able to connect but we were still unable to actually post anything or check our flights.  From here we walked to the Internet Cafe and found it closed on Sunday.  By now it looked like a storm was imminent so we walked back to the apartment.  Overall, a time consuming and frustrating experience. 

   We first thought we might head back into Paris tonight and see the Eiffel Tower at night with the lights and all but good humor and the desire to do so has escaped us.

 

06 June - D-Day and Visit to St. Avold, Lorraine American Cemetery

   I can't say it was a lovely day in any way, but it was meaningful.  We are glad we went to the Lorraine American Cemetery.  When we woke the rain was here as predicted.  Sadly, we were not perceptive enough to bring our coats with us for the day. 

   Anyway, off we went via bus, Metro, TGV, and regular train for our arrival in St. Avold.  We called the cemetery and a lovely, professional, young woman name Valerie picked us up and take us to the cemetery.  The flowers we ordered were waiting for us in the office.  It is a lovely cemetery despite the rain, but it also a very sad experience.  Somewhat like going to Pearl Harbor or viewing a prison camp museum.  So many crosses or stars, row after row of those who gave the ultimate price for freedom for so many.  After bringing us to the main office Valerie drove us to the grave site of Robert Glos.  We placed the flowers on his grave, she placed a US flag and a French flag on the grave and said those were ours to keep when we left.  One thing she also did was rub sand in the name and dates on the cross so the text would show up.  She pointed out that even the sand is significant because it was sand from Omaha Beach.  Of course by  then I was shedding tears thinking of this young man of 21 who left the Napa Valley and never came home again.  Certainly, I believe these young men; husbands, brothers, uncles, cousins, etc. are in another place now, but it was a moving event to visit this cemetery and chapel especially after all the stories of WWII and other things we have learned on this trip.       

   I suspect many of you have viewed the happenings in Normandy at the various beaches.  Please keep in mind there are 25 (or 28) cemeteries across Europe holding those soldiers who remain "forever young."  Lorraine American Cemetery is the largest in Europe.  I won't say anymore about this visit but just post a few photographs.

   We decided to change our return trip to Paris since we would not walk around or have a picnic as planned due to the rain.  We would also forgo any plans in Paris due to rain and mood.  A moving day.     

 

05 June Paris-Vincennes

   Today was the day we were to go to Versailles but since John didn't really want to (and I have see it), it was up to him to make a plan for the day.  He did a great job!  He used the Rick Steves Paris 2009 travel guide and noted interest in the Bastille area.  There was a two mile walk through the area that seemed interesting, so that is what we did.  Of course we started with the bus and the Metro into Paris and getting off in the Bastille this time for the Marais Walk beginning in the characteristic quarter there, through that and the Jewish quarter, and ending in the artsy Beaubourg district. Our walk included:  Place de Bastille, Hotel de Sully, Places des Vosges, side trip to the  Picasso Museum (pictured Femme Bust, Bronze 1931), Rue des Francs Bourgeois, Rue Pavee, Camille Brassiere (for lunch), Jewish Quarter, Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie and a brief stop at the Pompidour Center.  It was a lovely walk and a lovely day.  We were not impressed with the art at the Pompidour Center.  It was listed as "Modern Art" but it was mostly things we either could not understand or seemed a bit grotesque or profane.  Many rooms came with warnings that the content of the room might be disturbing.  We did enjoy the few of the Paris skyline from the sixth floor.

   About lunch-My lunch was fish and ratatouille so it was delicious,  John continues to order things that he is not entirely sure of.   This time it brought him a pork sausage that had to be a sausage of "innards" (we asked the man sitting next to us).  We did realize it was pork, but knowing it was sausage would have made me wary.  John is the man though, as he ate it.  

   After this we took the Metro on to the Lafayette Galleries in hopes of a bit of shopping. However, the prices were so exorbitant we decided not to buy anything.  Time to head home and prepare for our trip the St. Avold tomorrow, D-Day.  There are many events going on all over France tomorrow, especially at the Normandy Beaches,     

 

04 June Paris-Vincennes

   One thing I want to mention before what we did today was an encounter at the front desk.  John went down to see and confirm our travel on 06 June to the Lorraine American Cemetery.  We wanted to be sure we were in fact headed to the correct departure train station since it was listed slightly different.  When the man at the desk asked where we were going John told him the cemetery and that we have a relative there who died during WWII.  He immediately said "Thank you"-I find it touching that the French people have not forgotten the sacrifice of lives and appreciation for all who died to give them freedom.

   We decided after overdoing things yesterday we would slim down our plans for today and just go to the Rodin Musee and Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb.  We started out about 10am and took the bus to the Metro this time.  That saved about 1+ mile walking on the day right there.  We transferred just once and got very close to the Rodin, just around the corner in fact.  We had an enjoyable visit there using our Rick Steves Paris book both to find and tour the museum.  It was amazing how empty the museum was as there seem to be so few people at the places we go to.  Tourism must really be taking a hit in this economy.  We have no problems taking photographs free from other in the pictures.  After the Rodin, since we were so close to the Rue Cler area in Arrondissement 7 we just walked over there for lunch.  This is the lovely, quaint area we stayed in at the end of the Rick Steves tour.  We had a delightful lunch at Tribeca; chicken for me, steak for John, with a salad for each of us plus creme brulee.  After this John decided he really didn't want to see Napoleon's tomb after all, and I have, so we just walked on Rue Cler and then took the Metro back to Vincennes.  Since we still had energy we walked back to the Royal Regency from the Metro.  We stopped at a cafe that advertised Wi-Fi and Internet, but they really had no computers for use, but free Wi-Fi if you eat or drink there.  We will probably do that one day since we have been unable to check our email or post this blog for a few days now. 

For your viewing pleasure:

The Kiss, Rodin 1888-1889 in Marble:

     

The Gates of Hell, in Bronze (never finished):

The Thinker (or two):

 

03 June Paris/Vincennes

   Walking, that was the word for our day, Rolinka would have been proud of us!  We were up and out shortly after 9am  and didn't return until after 5:30pm so I am tired tonight, well my feet are!  We did have a lovely day beginning at the D'Orsay and ending at the Musee National de l'Orangerie. 

   We especially liked the D'Orsay as we had the Rick Steves iPod tour to use and we really saw the highlights and had them explained to us.  We really enjoyed the Impressionists and their works.  We got to see many Van Gogh paintings that somehow completed our visit to Arles.  The Degas and others were such a treat to see.  We saw fantastic statues and other paintings.  We also had a lunch break there at the cafeteria, which was a simple but delicious meal. 

   The Musee National de l'Orangerie has a delightful collection of Impressionist artists.  The highlight is the Monet Water lilies but there is also the collection of Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume collections.  (Cezanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, and Modigliani, etc.)  After visiting there we were very close to the Louvre and we thought we would have and aperitif but could not find a close place so we just took the Metro back to Vincennes and walked back to our apartment.  We definitely would stay in Paris if we did this again. 

   Since our large meal was lunch we have cheese, crackers, and fruit for our evening meal and then collapsed.  It is hard not having email and knowing what is happening at home.   

Degas:

Ingres:

Picasso:

Monet:

 

Random Travel Musings; Train, etc.

   While sitting on the train traveling from Avignon to Paris many thoughts are running though my mind.  It is 1:45am and my loved ones are sleeping.  I wonder how many days it will take us to adjust and reenter PDST?  Hopefully, the one night in NYC will give us a brief head start on that. 

   About the train:  I am not sure if I mentioned this before but we purchased the 2nd class Senior SaverPass.  This pass is for 2 or more people traveling together.  One does not need to be a Senior to by this pass but the price is a little lower if you are a senior, if I recall correctly.  Of course this works well for us because all our travel has been together.  However, in making our reservations after buying the pass we were unable to book 2nd class from Paris to Perpignan and had to pay the difference  (E$114. I think it was).  Keeping this in mind I should have made the reservation sooner.  In retrospect I believe the 1st class pass would have cost less than the one upgrade.  The advantage of the 2nd class pass is you travel with mostly locals.  The advantage of the 1st class pass is larger seats and more leg room, fewer families with children (sometimes loud and unruly), and better ventilation or use of A/C at a higher level.  Now understand, 2nd class is not bad, just not as nice.  I am a bit concerned about the number of people who are coughing, sneezing, and blowing their noses.  In addition, we have felt that if is enjoyable to look out the train, view the countryside, and see the area.  In reality on the high speed trains (TGV in France and yet another newer name I don't recall) the train is within slopes or walls most of the time so you really don't see a lot.  Photographs are almost impossible.  I say this to remind myself that when/if the opportunity arises it would be beneficial to use a couchette (sleeping car) for a long distance between some cities or countries to also save the price of a hotel room.    

   About renting a car:  Driving is not at all difficult in France.  The traffic circles are a joy and no challenge at all.  They are clearly marked and one only needs to most importantly know what city direction one wants as the names are prominently listed whereas the route numbers seem to be somewhat of an afterthought.  I am not sure we would rent a car again--depends on our age and ability when we come again.  It might be more enjoyable to hire a local guide with a car or book a few individual tours to outlying areas.

   About Group Travel:  (Rick Steves groups anyway)  The advantage of group travel with a nice, energetic, friendly group with a terrific guide is when/if you get in a bit of a travel funk you have all of that "fun" going on around you and it perks you up.  Plus, who wants to be a dud or a grump in front of others, but of course we can do that when it is just our spouse!  Looking forward to other group adventures!  However, we also like being on our own because we can decide how long to stay and look at one thing or another and move at a slower pace.  A balance of both is good.     

  The news here:  We so enjoy the world news we receive here.  Of course little of it is about the US but we are learning so many new details about other countries.  Even our World News at home is not so informative.  In two days Poland will celebrate the solidarity election and move that was the beginning of the end of Communism.  Calling this the "Autumn of Change" and many specials to be shown.  It would be interesting to watch these programs.  There was a man about our age making some comments; he said that before 1989, all one could buy was vinegar and mustard unless you "knew someone" who could procure other items.  So of course he fells life is better even though it is still a struggle.  I think many in our country have no idea how bad things could really get for the US with the debt we are in and being so deeply in debt to China and other countries.   
   

 

02 June Arles-Avignon-Paris

   We left Arles at our designated time and made it to Avignon in plenty of time even though we missed the TVG station as we drove into the city arriving at the city wall the first time around.  However, we drove around the wall, saw the signs for the TGV, and got back on track.  As we arrived there another couple about our age zoomed in, ran in with their car key, and then ran up the stairs luggage in tow to hopefully catch their train.  I am glad we had a realistic idea about our abilities and left with the idea of arriving one hour earlier than needed.  As it was we were unable to fuel the vehicle because each place we stopped did not have diesel.  One place that did have it required a card to access filling our tank, which of course we did not have.  They will fill it and charge us, I am sure that will be an eye-opener.  At any rate we arrived in plenty of time to use the restroom, have a cappuccino, buy a sandwich for the trip, and get to our area on the platform 10 minutes prior to departure without rushing.  The new TGV station here in Avignon is quite modern looking as you can see.  

  The train ride was uneventful.  We were glad we had a sandwich to split, chips, and a cookie for John that I purchased at the station as the the dining car is still unavailable due to strike.  There were a lot of children on the train or perhaps the few there were made it seem like a lot.  (this would be one reason to be in 1st class instead of second class for noise reduction)  These not-so-well-behaved children continually test the patience of their weary parents and their antics are only things we might enjoy from our own grandchildren.  Nevertheless, hilltop towns and quaint villages whisk by at 200+mph.  One does not have the sensation of traveling fast but when you see the freeways and know the cars are traveling 120 kilometers per hour then you realize your speed.  Paris is just 2.5 hours from Avignon, nonstop by TGV.   

   Soon we arrive at Gare de Lyon and it is a brief walk to Metro line 1.  However, we now tote a large bag of fabric and the blue tote full of souvenirs and other items so it does not seem so fast.  We are no longer the streamlined roll on board and one personal item travelers we once were.  At the end of the line we decided we would just get a taxi but each one that passed had occupants.  Eventually our bus # came by and he told us the appropriate place to wait to catch the bus in our direction.  We quickly crossed the street as the bus was waiting there and we boarded for the short ride to the Royal Regency.  There was a communication gap as we forgot what we wanted to say but fortunately a sweet young woman came to our rescue and told the driver where we wanted to get off.  From there is was a long block to the timeshare and we were happy to arrive.  They are friendly and nice but not overly helpful.  We were really ready for someone else to carry our luggage but they gave us a cart, which was fine as well.

   Our studio apartment is lovely and spacious, we even have a small table and chairs on the grass outside the patio door for our convenience.  It is so nice to have a kitchen and some space to put our things.  The bathroom and other areas are huge in comparison to our accommodations of the last few weeks.  We have a closet, sofa, mini table, microwave, fridge, dishwasher, etc.  Almost all the comforts of home.  We are shocked not to have WiFi and the Internet has not worked here in a month (per the man at the front desk).  Who knows when we will post our blog, though we have been shown two sites to walk to, it would take more time than we want to spend right now.  As I said the actual studio apartment is very nice and we will take pleasure in that.  The amenities, such as they are, are not so great other than that.  We would probably exchange and stay within Paris next time.  There is a pool table, but it has a hole and the sticks are not so hot with no tips per John as he already tested this feature. 

  After arrival we headed out to get groceries.  The first store was a slight disappointment but not knowing what the next would bring we purchased a few things.  We had to pay E$.03 for a plastic bag to carry the items in.  John took these things back to the apartment while I ventured on to the next grocery.  This one was much better and we got all our needed supplies; cold cuts, eggs, butter, oil, lettuce, fruit, bread, eggs, vegetables, etc.  We got a couple of steaks for dinner, which I managed to overcook, but we still ate them.  Dinner was a salad, steak with mushroom and zucchini (and bread).  Dessert was packaged cream caramel, which wiped away all thoughts of the over done meat.  The cream caramel was not as tasty as the ones Odette had but I could not find anything "high end" like that.  This was more like Pudim de Leite that we had had in Brazil.  Good nonetheless!  I was happy I bought herbs in Avignon as I opened and made good use of them here. 

   Of note we really enjoy the World News on CNN here.  It is much better than our World News at home, much more detail.  Right now Poland is in the midst of celebrating 20 years of freedom as in two days it is they will mark the 20th anniversary of the vote by the bloodless Solidarity Movement to wipe out Communism.  They are going to have several specials on TV about this.  I wish we could watch them.  Of course we recall Pres, Regan telling Mr. Gorbechev (sp?) to knock down the wall, but there was much more that contributed to that than the US intervention that we did not really hear about or I do not recall.  They interviewed a man about our age.  He recalled that before this time one could buy vinegar and mustard.  If one wanted more than that they needed to "know someone" who could procure other things.  We are so spoiled in the US and I wonder how bad things could get in the future?  I think we have no idea yet.     

1 June-Arles

    We woke early but did not really get up and going early.  The buffet offered here in the hotel is E$12. (read US$16.) each and since I really don't care much for breakfast and John was not impressed with the choices, he got us a coffee, quiche, and apple tart for a total of E$12. to eat in our room.  That was a nice start of the day.  Our hotel is lovely, as shown here.  We were out and about around 10:30am after checking and replying to a variety of emails from family and new friends from the RS tour. 

   Off to the tourist office and purchased the booklet we wanted to do some walking around Arles with information in hand.  As we were there the little tourist train went by and we hopped on to hopefully have a brief overview of the city in English.  It was a bit of a disappointment because it only went places we have walked already so we didn't learn much.  After hopping off we began the Van Gogh walk in reverse (since that was our location). 

   We stopped for a full menu lunch at the cafe where Van Gogh drank  with his friends and got into a conflict with one on the night he cut off the lobe of his ear and gave to a harlot.  Sadly disturbed, young man with such talent.  The cafe food was good, not outstanding but the atmosphere was nice and the Forum Square was lovely.  After progressing further on the walk we came to the area of our hotel and decided to again take the mid afternoon off.  It is the heat of the day and the most crowded so it is a good time to stay in.  Pictured here is the hospital where Van Gogh stayed and painted many paintings, including this courtyard. 

   We continued out our walk around 4pm but this time we decided to actually start at the beginning and then end up back by our hotel again.  It was an enjoyable walk but sadly one of the things I wanted to see most was closed; the recreated bedroom of Van Gogh.  All the painting Van Gogh did here (around 300) not one remains here, which seems a shame.  He was a Dutch painter and of course there is the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam.  There is the Van Gogh Foundation where many posters or copies are, but the focus of the foundation is to allow upcoming artists in Van Gogh style to present their work.  It was interesting with a few nice works but a lot of things that we really didn't care for.  It is an interesting walk and we wish we had more time here as there is a lot to see and we simply have no more time.  For instance there is the Camargue wildlife area just out of Arles but one really needs a full day to properly see it.  This area is flanked by the Rhone on both sides "the Grand Rhone" and the "Petit Rhone"-we were told we could see wild boar, many birds, and more.  We also didn't have time to go to three outlying areas we hoped to see.  Again, John says next time. 

   A little more shopping and a fabulous dinner (crepes) rounded out the evening.  There have been some threatening clouds but no rain.  We are packed and pray for an uneventful trip back to Avignon to take the train to Paris tomorrow morning. 

   We do have CNN in English here and see that a plane is lost in route from Rio to Paris, so very sad.  I hope they can find the wreckage so at least the family will know what happened.  The GM news of  bankruptcy is no surprise.