11 June - Home at last!

   After an unscheduled night in Salt Lake City, flight changes too numerous to count, and a few frayed nerves we are HOME!  John and I reflect that it is both a happy and melancholy occasion to have our trip end.  It is so good to be home and see the family and familiar surroundings.  I love my washer and dryer and I can't believe how gigantic my PC monitor looks!  I have become very used to the Acer netbook!  Our 1750 sq ft house seems huge!  It is sad that our trip, so anticipated, is behind us now but we cherish the memories.  I hope to start compiling my 11 GB of photos for an album tomorrow.  We are unpacked, some gifts given out, kisses and hugs shared, laundry done, and we are blessed and thankful we have a wonderful place to come home to.  Travel stretches your boundaries, educates your mind, changes your outlook, and changes you from within if you let it.  We are grateful for all our experiences that we will mull over for many years to come and thankful we were able to have this wonderful "trip of a lifetime" together. 

10 June - NY-MN-UT, but NOT HOME

   Okay I am not happy.  I am not home.  What a fiasco today!  Certainly things could be worse and I hope they are not tomorrow.  We went to the airport at the appointed time.  Our flight showed ON TIME until it showed "Canceled" - We saw the plane was taken out of service, perhaps it was the American Airlines plane that made an emergency landing?  Who knows.  As soon as I saw this I was on the phone to AA and they rebooked us going to Atlanta, Salt Lake, and then Fresno.  We rushed to a separate part of the airport (by bus).  As we were waiting for the bus we asked an employee how to get to that location, she offered to TAKE us there and help us out!  What sort of miracle was that?  Until that moment I swear there was NO ONE smiling at that airport!  She was such a sweet young woman.  It was quite a hassle to actually GET the boarding passes but we got them.  Now the flight is Minneapolis, Salt Lake, and then Fresno.  We finally got what was needed and then she walked us through security and to our gate.  I have never been treated so kindly.  I was thankful I purchased a cross necklace at the Dublin airport and I fished it out and gave it to her.  She seemed touched and appreciative.  After that flight things did not go as planned.  The transfer in Minneapolis was a snap.  She said she put us on as needing a wheelchair so we would make the flights, but we didn't need that.  We made the gate and time just fine.  It was after we were on the plane there was a problem.  It was unbearably hot on the plane as the ground power had gone so we sat.  Finally this was fixed and we headed to Salt Lake.  However, we were so late that our Fresno flight was gone.  I am too tired to be too upset.  Anyway we have a FREE hotel, taxi, and food so here we are.  We need to leave for the airport by 5:30am to hopefully catch a 7am flight to LAX and then on to Fresno arriving at 11:30am.  I HOPE!!!  I am sure something of more interest must have happened today, but if it did I cannot recall it at the moment!   

 

09 June - Back to the USA - Paris/Dublin/NYC

   We were up and ready to go at the appointed time of 10am.  Our luggage has grown!  If any of our Rick Steves travel buddies see this photo they will laugh.  We used great restraint in "shopping" until we finished the tour but we did have in mind several things we wanted from Southern France, so these things were planned.  Note the bright blue RS bag and how well it expands.  I believe they secretly call this the "Don't Tell Rick" bag. 

   Our shuttle was  due to arrive at 10:30am but when it was close to 11am we had the staff call for us.  Apparently, there was an accident on the freeway and the shuttle was stuck in traffic.  Thankfully the staff called us a taxi and we made it to CDG airport in no time at all.  We checked in and began our wait.  All our flights were on time so that was a blessing for us.  Incidentally, our Aer Lingus flight from Paris to Dublin did not even offer a drink free of charge.  A soda was E$3. water E$2.50.  We were glad we made a sandwich and had our water bottles filled.  Our layover in Dublin was just long enough to spend the last of the Euros we had and off we went.  To our surprise we were served a meal, snack, and beverage on this Aer Lingus flight!  We had the treat of having our own personal TV/Movie screen and a large array of things to watch.  We flew on a lovely 330 Airbus and wondered how this amazing and huge plane could just fall from the sky?  Maybe we should wonder how it stays up there at all?  What a tragic event that was for so many.  I feel we had an overdose of information on that loss since the only channel we could receive in English in Paris was CNN.  Anyway, we are back to the US safe and sound, thankful for that.  We are wondering how we will adjust to the time difference.  They told us here at the hotel that many flights were canceled out of LGA (LaGuardia) today due to storms and such across the country but weather is supposed to clear, so we hope it does. 

 

08 June - Vincennes and Paris

   Our last full day in France.  I remained in a bit of a funk unable to access email and feeling too isolated.   However, John walked to the Internet Cafe that was closed yesterday and it was open and our connections worked just fine there.  He checked our flight information and all things are fine for that.  This is a relief for me.  Later in the day we took the bus to the same Internet Cafe and posted the blog and replied to what emails we could.  I felt so much better then! 

   From there we went into Paris and awaited the lighting of the Eiffel Tower at 10pm.  Actually, it was still a bit light but it was magical we enjoyed that.  I asked a young man to take our photo and then we took a group photo of he and his friends for them.  They were a lovely group of Brazilians!  After that five minute event we walked to a nearby cafe and had a delicious shrimp and avocado salad, our last meal in Paris for now.  We saw the 11pm sparkle and then took the Metro back.  We took a taxi from the Metro back to the Royal Regency because it was too late to walk and now we are headed to bed.  A quiet day but successful too since we had news from home.  

 

07 June Vincennes

    Today we were to go to Giverny, Monet's home and gardens.  We woke up early and began to get ready but just lost energy for the plan.  We are tired, it looks like rain, and we decided we didn't want to spend a combination of four hours on Metro, train, bus, and/or taxi to get there.  I guess it proves we have traveled too long on this trip.  I am personally feeling isolated since I have not even been able to look at my email for five days now.  We decided a better way to spend the day would be lunch at the Australian Bar that has Wi-Fi and catch up on email, also confirming our flight home on the Internet since we can't even call from here without an unknown fee. 

   As to not make it a wasted day the first order of the day was to unpack everything and repack it ready for flying and travel home.  That took until approximately 1pm when we then headed out to have our lunch.  The Australian Bar is a fun place, if you can read the steps each one had a distance to a point in Australia.  The lunch was tasty, the people friendly, the service was good but the overall experience was unsatisfying as far as the Internet.  We were unable to connect to the Internet at the cafe and even though they tried to help us "this happens a lot" so we were unsuccessful.  From there we walked to the McDonald's that we were told had Wi-Fi also.  Here we were able to connect but we were still unable to actually post anything or check our flights.  From here we walked to the Internet Cafe and found it closed on Sunday.  By now it looked like a storm was imminent so we walked back to the apartment.  Overall, a time consuming and frustrating experience. 

   We first thought we might head back into Paris tonight and see the Eiffel Tower at night with the lights and all but good humor and the desire to do so has escaped us.

 

06 June - D-Day and Visit to St. Avold, Lorraine American Cemetery

   I can't say it was a lovely day in any way, but it was meaningful.  We are glad we went to the Lorraine American Cemetery.  When we woke the rain was here as predicted.  Sadly, we were not perceptive enough to bring our coats with us for the day. 

   Anyway, off we went via bus, Metro, TGV, and regular train for our arrival in St. Avold.  We called the cemetery and a lovely, professional, young woman name Valerie picked us up and take us to the cemetery.  The flowers we ordered were waiting for us in the office.  It is a lovely cemetery despite the rain, but it also a very sad experience.  Somewhat like going to Pearl Harbor or viewing a prison camp museum.  So many crosses or stars, row after row of those who gave the ultimate price for freedom for so many.  After bringing us to the main office Valerie drove us to the grave site of Robert Glos.  We placed the flowers on his grave, she placed a US flag and a French flag on the grave and said those were ours to keep when we left.  One thing she also did was rub sand in the name and dates on the cross so the text would show up.  She pointed out that even the sand is significant because it was sand from Omaha Beach.  Of course by  then I was shedding tears thinking of this young man of 21 who left the Napa Valley and never came home again.  Certainly, I believe these young men; husbands, brothers, uncles, cousins, etc. are in another place now, but it was a moving event to visit this cemetery and chapel especially after all the stories of WWII and other things we have learned on this trip.       

   I suspect many of you have viewed the happenings in Normandy at the various beaches.  Please keep in mind there are 25 (or 28) cemeteries across Europe holding those soldiers who remain "forever young."  Lorraine American Cemetery is the largest in Europe.  I won't say anymore about this visit but just post a few photographs.

   We decided to change our return trip to Paris since we would not walk around or have a picnic as planned due to the rain.  We would also forgo any plans in Paris due to rain and mood.  A moving day.     

 

05 June Paris-Vincennes

   Today was the day we were to go to Versailles but since John didn't really want to (and I have see it), it was up to him to make a plan for the day.  He did a great job!  He used the Rick Steves Paris 2009 travel guide and noted interest in the Bastille area.  There was a two mile walk through the area that seemed interesting, so that is what we did.  Of course we started with the bus and the Metro into Paris and getting off in the Bastille this time for the Marais Walk beginning in the characteristic quarter there, through that and the Jewish quarter, and ending in the artsy Beaubourg district. Our walk included:  Place de Bastille, Hotel de Sully, Places des Vosges, side trip to the  Picasso Museum (pictured Femme Bust, Bronze 1931), Rue des Francs Bourgeois, Rue Pavee, Camille Brassiere (for lunch), Jewish Quarter, Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie and a brief stop at the Pompidour Center.  It was a lovely walk and a lovely day.  We were not impressed with the art at the Pompidour Center.  It was listed as "Modern Art" but it was mostly things we either could not understand or seemed a bit grotesque or profane.  Many rooms came with warnings that the content of the room might be disturbing.  We did enjoy the few of the Paris skyline from the sixth floor.

   About lunch-My lunch was fish and ratatouille so it was delicious,  John continues to order things that he is not entirely sure of.   This time it brought him a pork sausage that had to be a sausage of "innards" (we asked the man sitting next to us).  We did realize it was pork, but knowing it was sausage would have made me wary.  John is the man though, as he ate it.  

   After this we took the Metro on to the Lafayette Galleries in hopes of a bit of shopping. However, the prices were so exorbitant we decided not to buy anything.  Time to head home and prepare for our trip the St. Avold tomorrow, D-Day.  There are many events going on all over France tomorrow, especially at the Normandy Beaches,     

 

04 June Paris-Vincennes

   One thing I want to mention before what we did today was an encounter at the front desk.  John went down to see and confirm our travel on 06 June to the Lorraine American Cemetery.  We wanted to be sure we were in fact headed to the correct departure train station since it was listed slightly different.  When the man at the desk asked where we were going John told him the cemetery and that we have a relative there who died during WWII.  He immediately said "Thank you"-I find it touching that the French people have not forgotten the sacrifice of lives and appreciation for all who died to give them freedom.

   We decided after overdoing things yesterday we would slim down our plans for today and just go to the Rodin Musee and Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb.  We started out about 10am and took the bus to the Metro this time.  That saved about 1+ mile walking on the day right there.  We transferred just once and got very close to the Rodin, just around the corner in fact.  We had an enjoyable visit there using our Rick Steves Paris book both to find and tour the museum.  It was amazing how empty the museum was as there seem to be so few people at the places we go to.  Tourism must really be taking a hit in this economy.  We have no problems taking photographs free from other in the pictures.  After the Rodin, since we were so close to the Rue Cler area in Arrondissement 7 we just walked over there for lunch.  This is the lovely, quaint area we stayed in at the end of the Rick Steves tour.  We had a delightful lunch at Tribeca; chicken for me, steak for John, with a salad for each of us plus creme brulee.  After this John decided he really didn't want to see Napoleon's tomb after all, and I have, so we just walked on Rue Cler and then took the Metro back to Vincennes.  Since we still had energy we walked back to the Royal Regency from the Metro.  We stopped at a cafe that advertised Wi-Fi and Internet, but they really had no computers for use, but free Wi-Fi if you eat or drink there.  We will probably do that one day since we have been unable to check our email or post this blog for a few days now. 

For your viewing pleasure:

The Kiss, Rodin 1888-1889 in Marble:

     

The Gates of Hell, in Bronze (never finished):

The Thinker (or two):

 

03 June Paris/Vincennes

   Walking, that was the word for our day, Rolinka would have been proud of us!  We were up and out shortly after 9am  and didn't return until after 5:30pm so I am tired tonight, well my feet are!  We did have a lovely day beginning at the D'Orsay and ending at the Musee National de l'Orangerie. 

   We especially liked the D'Orsay as we had the Rick Steves iPod tour to use and we really saw the highlights and had them explained to us.  We really enjoyed the Impressionists and their works.  We got to see many Van Gogh paintings that somehow completed our visit to Arles.  The Degas and others were such a treat to see.  We saw fantastic statues and other paintings.  We also had a lunch break there at the cafeteria, which was a simple but delicious meal. 

   The Musee National de l'Orangerie has a delightful collection of Impressionist artists.  The highlight is the Monet Water lilies but there is also the collection of Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume collections.  (Cezanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, and Modigliani, etc.)  After visiting there we were very close to the Louvre and we thought we would have and aperitif but could not find a close place so we just took the Metro back to Vincennes and walked back to our apartment.  We definitely would stay in Paris if we did this again. 

   Since our large meal was lunch we have cheese, crackers, and fruit for our evening meal and then collapsed.  It is hard not having email and knowing what is happening at home.   

Degas:

Ingres:

Picasso:

Monet:

 

Random Travel Musings; Train, etc.

   While sitting on the train traveling from Avignon to Paris many thoughts are running though my mind.  It is 1:45am and my loved ones are sleeping.  I wonder how many days it will take us to adjust and reenter PDST?  Hopefully, the one night in NYC will give us a brief head start on that. 

   About the train:  I am not sure if I mentioned this before but we purchased the 2nd class Senior SaverPass.  This pass is for 2 or more people traveling together.  One does not need to be a Senior to by this pass but the price is a little lower if you are a senior, if I recall correctly.  Of course this works well for us because all our travel has been together.  However, in making our reservations after buying the pass we were unable to book 2nd class from Paris to Perpignan and had to pay the difference  (E$114. I think it was).  Keeping this in mind I should have made the reservation sooner.  In retrospect I believe the 1st class pass would have cost less than the one upgrade.  The advantage of the 2nd class pass is you travel with mostly locals.  The advantage of the 1st class pass is larger seats and more leg room, fewer families with children (sometimes loud and unruly), and better ventilation or use of A/C at a higher level.  Now understand, 2nd class is not bad, just not as nice.  I am a bit concerned about the number of people who are coughing, sneezing, and blowing their noses.  In addition, we have felt that if is enjoyable to look out the train, view the countryside, and see the area.  In reality on the high speed trains (TGV in France and yet another newer name I don't recall) the train is within slopes or walls most of the time so you really don't see a lot.  Photographs are almost impossible.  I say this to remind myself that when/if the opportunity arises it would be beneficial to use a couchette (sleeping car) for a long distance between some cities or countries to also save the price of a hotel room.    

   About renting a car:  Driving is not at all difficult in France.  The traffic circles are a joy and no challenge at all.  They are clearly marked and one only needs to most importantly know what city direction one wants as the names are prominently listed whereas the route numbers seem to be somewhat of an afterthought.  I am not sure we would rent a car again--depends on our age and ability when we come again.  It might be more enjoyable to hire a local guide with a car or book a few individual tours to outlying areas.

   About Group Travel:  (Rick Steves groups anyway)  The advantage of group travel with a nice, energetic, friendly group with a terrific guide is when/if you get in a bit of a travel funk you have all of that "fun" going on around you and it perks you up.  Plus, who wants to be a dud or a grump in front of others, but of course we can do that when it is just our spouse!  Looking forward to other group adventures!  However, we also like being on our own because we can decide how long to stay and look at one thing or another and move at a slower pace.  A balance of both is good.     

  The news here:  We so enjoy the world news we receive here.  Of course little of it is about the US but we are learning so many new details about other countries.  Even our World News at home is not so informative.  In two days Poland will celebrate the solidarity election and move that was the beginning of the end of Communism.  Calling this the "Autumn of Change" and many specials to be shown.  It would be interesting to watch these programs.  There was a man about our age making some comments; he said that before 1989, all one could buy was vinegar and mustard unless you "knew someone" who could procure other items.  So of course he fells life is better even though it is still a struggle.  I think many in our country have no idea how bad things could really get for the US with the debt we are in and being so deeply in debt to China and other countries.   
   

 

02 June Arles-Avignon-Paris

   We left Arles at our designated time and made it to Avignon in plenty of time even though we missed the TVG station as we drove into the city arriving at the city wall the first time around.  However, we drove around the wall, saw the signs for the TGV, and got back on track.  As we arrived there another couple about our age zoomed in, ran in with their car key, and then ran up the stairs luggage in tow to hopefully catch their train.  I am glad we had a realistic idea about our abilities and left with the idea of arriving one hour earlier than needed.  As it was we were unable to fuel the vehicle because each place we stopped did not have diesel.  One place that did have it required a card to access filling our tank, which of course we did not have.  They will fill it and charge us, I am sure that will be an eye-opener.  At any rate we arrived in plenty of time to use the restroom, have a cappuccino, buy a sandwich for the trip, and get to our area on the platform 10 minutes prior to departure without rushing.  The new TGV station here in Avignon is quite modern looking as you can see.  

  The train ride was uneventful.  We were glad we had a sandwich to split, chips, and a cookie for John that I purchased at the station as the the dining car is still unavailable due to strike.  There were a lot of children on the train or perhaps the few there were made it seem like a lot.  (this would be one reason to be in 1st class instead of second class for noise reduction)  These not-so-well-behaved children continually test the patience of their weary parents and their antics are only things we might enjoy from our own grandchildren.  Nevertheless, hilltop towns and quaint villages whisk by at 200+mph.  One does not have the sensation of traveling fast but when you see the freeways and know the cars are traveling 120 kilometers per hour then you realize your speed.  Paris is just 2.5 hours from Avignon, nonstop by TGV.   

   Soon we arrive at Gare de Lyon and it is a brief walk to Metro line 1.  However, we now tote a large bag of fabric and the blue tote full of souvenirs and other items so it does not seem so fast.  We are no longer the streamlined roll on board and one personal item travelers we once were.  At the end of the line we decided we would just get a taxi but each one that passed had occupants.  Eventually our bus # came by and he told us the appropriate place to wait to catch the bus in our direction.  We quickly crossed the street as the bus was waiting there and we boarded for the short ride to the Royal Regency.  There was a communication gap as we forgot what we wanted to say but fortunately a sweet young woman came to our rescue and told the driver where we wanted to get off.  From there is was a long block to the timeshare and we were happy to arrive.  They are friendly and nice but not overly helpful.  We were really ready for someone else to carry our luggage but they gave us a cart, which was fine as well.

   Our studio apartment is lovely and spacious, we even have a small table and chairs on the grass outside the patio door for our convenience.  It is so nice to have a kitchen and some space to put our things.  The bathroom and other areas are huge in comparison to our accommodations of the last few weeks.  We have a closet, sofa, mini table, microwave, fridge, dishwasher, etc.  Almost all the comforts of home.  We are shocked not to have WiFi and the Internet has not worked here in a month (per the man at the front desk).  Who knows when we will post our blog, though we have been shown two sites to walk to, it would take more time than we want to spend right now.  As I said the actual studio apartment is very nice and we will take pleasure in that.  The amenities, such as they are, are not so great other than that.  We would probably exchange and stay within Paris next time.  There is a pool table, but it has a hole and the sticks are not so hot with no tips per John as he already tested this feature. 

  After arrival we headed out to get groceries.  The first store was a slight disappointment but not knowing what the next would bring we purchased a few things.  We had to pay E$.03 for a plastic bag to carry the items in.  John took these things back to the apartment while I ventured on to the next grocery.  This one was much better and we got all our needed supplies; cold cuts, eggs, butter, oil, lettuce, fruit, bread, eggs, vegetables, etc.  We got a couple of steaks for dinner, which I managed to overcook, but we still ate them.  Dinner was a salad, steak with mushroom and zucchini (and bread).  Dessert was packaged cream caramel, which wiped away all thoughts of the over done meat.  The cream caramel was not as tasty as the ones Odette had but I could not find anything "high end" like that.  This was more like Pudim de Leite that we had had in Brazil.  Good nonetheless!  I was happy I bought herbs in Avignon as I opened and made good use of them here. 

   Of note we really enjoy the World News on CNN here.  It is much better than our World News at home, much more detail.  Right now Poland is in the midst of celebrating 20 years of freedom as in two days it is they will mark the 20th anniversary of the vote by the bloodless Solidarity Movement to wipe out Communism.  They are going to have several specials on TV about this.  I wish we could watch them.  Of course we recall Pres, Regan telling Mr. Gorbechev (sp?) to knock down the wall, but there was much more that contributed to that than the US intervention that we did not really hear about or I do not recall.  They interviewed a man about our age.  He recalled that before this time one could buy vinegar and mustard.  If one wanted more than that they needed to "know someone" who could procure other things.  We are so spoiled in the US and I wonder how bad things could get in the future?  I think we have no idea yet.     

1 June-Arles

    We woke early but did not really get up and going early.  The buffet offered here in the hotel is E$12. (read US$16.) each and since I really don't care much for breakfast and John was not impressed with the choices, he got us a coffee, quiche, and apple tart for a total of E$12. to eat in our room.  That was a nice start of the day.  Our hotel is lovely, as shown here.  We were out and about around 10:30am after checking and replying to a variety of emails from family and new friends from the RS tour. 

   Off to the tourist office and purchased the booklet we wanted to do some walking around Arles with information in hand.  As we were there the little tourist train went by and we hopped on to hopefully have a brief overview of the city in English.  It was a bit of a disappointment because it only went places we have walked already so we didn't learn much.  After hopping off we began the Van Gogh walk in reverse (since that was our location). 

   We stopped for a full menu lunch at the cafe where Van Gogh drank  with his friends and got into a conflict with one on the night he cut off the lobe of his ear and gave to a harlot.  Sadly disturbed, young man with such talent.  The cafe food was good, not outstanding but the atmosphere was nice and the Forum Square was lovely.  After progressing further on the walk we came to the area of our hotel and decided to again take the mid afternoon off.  It is the heat of the day and the most crowded so it is a good time to stay in.  Pictured here is the hospital where Van Gogh stayed and painted many paintings, including this courtyard. 

   We continued out our walk around 4pm but this time we decided to actually start at the beginning and then end up back by our hotel again.  It was an enjoyable walk but sadly one of the things I wanted to see most was closed; the recreated bedroom of Van Gogh.  All the painting Van Gogh did here (around 300) not one remains here, which seems a shame.  He was a Dutch painter and of course there is the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam.  There is the Van Gogh Foundation where many posters or copies are, but the focus of the foundation is to allow upcoming artists in Van Gogh style to present their work.  It was interesting with a few nice works but a lot of things that we really didn't care for.  It is an interesting walk and we wish we had more time here as there is a lot to see and we simply have no more time.  For instance there is the Camargue wildlife area just out of Arles but one really needs a full day to properly see it.  This area is flanked by the Rhone on both sides "the Grand Rhone" and the "Petit Rhone"-we were told we could see wild boar, many birds, and more.  We also didn't have time to go to three outlying areas we hoped to see.  Again, John says next time. 

   A little more shopping and a fabulous dinner (crepes) rounded out the evening.  There have been some threatening clouds but no rain.  We are packed and pray for an uneventful trip back to Avignon to take the train to Paris tomorrow morning. 

   We do have CNN in English here and see that a plane is lost in route from Rio to Paris, so very sad.  I hope they can find the wreckage so at least the family will know what happened.  The GM news of  bankruptcy is no surprise. 

31 May-Avignon to Arles

  We woke to rain this morning.  I packed and after breakfast John walked to the parking garage for the car and then parked in front.  I waited in the lobby and replied to some emails.  When it looked a bit clearer we ventured out for our trip to Arles. Meanwhile, we met this couple in the lobby about our age and they are riding bicycles throughout the area.  They are from San Francisco.  They were not too thrilled about the rain and I was really happy we are not doing that!  (not that we could)  Anyway, off to 
Arles, which went very well until we actually arrived in Arles--Of course we did not know where we were going and finally we stopped and I drove so John could navigate.  Sadly, this was not an improvement.  We asked directions a few times to no avail.  The problem with a map is you need to know where you are to get where you want to go.  Well after a tiff we finally found the hotel.  It was remarkable later when we discovered at the time we switched drivers we were about one block from the hotel!  A mere 45 minutes to an hour we found it!  Anyway, we can laugh now but it was not so funny at the time. 

   After the driving fiasco it was quite a relief to see the hotel!  The Le Calendal hotel is very nice, though small, it is right by the arena.  There is a lovely garden dining area but we decided not to eat here right then as we need some walking and air.  After checking into the hotel and John taking the car to the municipal parking garage, and walking back, we headed out to lunch.  We decided on the plat de jour, which we were only sure was lamb.  We were surprised to get three lamb chops and a mountain of french fries!  Again, we could not eat it all.  I believe the portions are becoming Americanized!  We got a half bottle of the house wine, which has Vincent VanGogh on the label.  I saved it for a souvenir.  Incidentally, the rain stopped when we arrived and we had a sunny day thereafter. 

   From there we went to the arena and purchased the pass we needed to go there and to a few other places in Arles, which we will do tomorrow.  We wanted to go to the TI but found it closed on Sunday at 3pm.  This will be our first stop tomorrow.  The arena is not as large as I thought it would be.  The one in Nimes is more impressive, of course the one in Rome is also.  We walked around inside and out and noted all the renovation taking place.  It is different than other renovations we have seen as they seem to actually be replacing stones with new stones and sort of "renewing" the look of the place.  We can't decide if we like that look or not.  Anyway, we saw it.  The tiny figure peeking out from behind an arch is me (sharon).

   From there we did the last of our shopping or so John believes, and headed back to the hotel for a rest.  Later we ventured out for dinner and had another lovely meal.  Again, we met more people traveling with a Rick Steves guide book.  We felt as kindred spirits when they said they drove around for an hour to find their hotel once they arrived to Arles!   Our restaurant owner/operator stated that Rick Steves was here just a few weeks ago so we should keep our eyes open for him since others saw him in Florence.  It is light late and we have enjoyed the day but we are ready to sleep now.   

PS: For 30 May

   I forgot to mention that on our way back from Pont du Gard we stopped at Carre Four, this is something like a grocery/department type store, maybe the most like a Super Walmart.  Anyway, I wanted to stop there because they also have these stores in Brazil and I knew we could purchase some little things to eat or drink very inexpensively, which we did.  I will say we bought toothpaste at less than half the price of the pharmacy within the city walls of Avignon.  There were many choices for pre-made sandwiches or fresh fruits and vegetables.  We used our picnic set and had a nice little meal in the evening. 

   Our vehicle is Diesel and we need to return it full.  Diesel seems to cost a bit less than gasoline, which is US$7.00, yes you read that right. 

  

30 May-Avignon

   We had a beautiful day in John's words, of course I totally agree!  However, when we woke we had the strange realization that we lost a day!  Some how we thought we still had today to walk around and shop in Avignon and we were picking up the car tomorrow.  We quickly rearranged our schedule and had help from Sylvie to call the car rental agency to ask if they would hold our car until later because we wanted to wait until after 12 to pick it up.  Off we went to check a couple more places for fabric and kitchen accessories.  I found a few more gift and decided I definitely liked the fabrics and items they had at Le Lavandin "de tissues en Provence".  So after several more stops we arrived there and I began picking out all I need to completely redecorate my kitchen/dining/family room area.  Of course this mean we need the new tile put on the floor and new sofas; a complete remodel in this area that John just started with the enlargement of the entry into the kitchen area by the refrigerator.  Anyway, I am excited to have all the fabric, plus table clothes, napkins, and 2 sized of bread baskets or they are really items that can be used as other dry containers also.  You can see what I mean by this photo.  I had a wonderful time shopping and John was right there with me with the conversions from metric to inches so I will be sure of what I have.  The man in the shop was so sweet after our large purchase he gave me a free apron I had chosen and told me to pick one of the thick kitchen towels as a gift.  What a nice young man.  I told him we had visited his shop 9 years ago and I have been thinking about coming back for fabric and other things ever since!

  Alas we are done there and head back in the direction of the hotel.  Just a brief stop for some delicately scented soaps.  John is hungry so we stopped at a very touristy place on the square.  I noticed we are right next to a woman who sold Debra a painting 9 years ago!  I bought another of Pont Du Gard today.  We had a nice lunch, I am a bit embarrassed to say we had a hamburger and fries with a salad, but we did.  It was delicious.  Anyway, Deb I am 99.9% certain this is the same woman, don't you think so???         

   Back to the hotel to drop off our purchases and then off to the bus stop to the TGV station in Avignon.  When I was here before there was only one Train Station, the Centerville station or Avignon Centre Station.  Now there is a separate station for the high speed, TGV trains just out of town.  We rode the bus for E$1.20 each and arrived there and after two enquires found the rental agency.  We will not be having the tiny Ford Ka after all but an upgrade to this Citroen.  We don't mind because it has AC, it is still a manual transmission and that is what we booked.  

   Off to Pont du Gard!  When we arrived we decided to do the walk to the bridge first, this was probably a mistake.  However, we had a lovely walk across, under, and around the bridge.  What a relaxing and lovely place to visit.  We watched swimmers and kayakers enjoying the Gardon River flowing below the bridge.  To know this is entirely held together with absolutely NO mortar and has stood for over 2K years is amazing.  We think we are intelligent, and we are in many ways, but this is still and amazing feat.  By the time we returned to the museum area we were too late for the film and also in entering the museum.  John was not too disappointed and has stated when we come back to spend a week or two we will do it then.  John is the little speck on the right side of the photo.  The information we want to know we can probably find out on the Internet; such as when they built the walk along side of the Pont du Gard and how they managed to use the keystone in these arches and build this without mortar.  It is really amazing.  The oldest and largest Roman bridge/aqueduct in the world.  Incidentally, the one arch over the river is larger as you might notice, and it is the largest arch ever built in this style by the Romans.  This is an amazing place to visit and I hope each one of you can come here and enjoy it as we have one day.    

29 May-Avignon

   We slept in!  We did make it down for breakfast by 9:30am and out and about by 10:30am.  We decided to take the Rick Steves walking tour of Avignon after a stop at TI (Tourist Information).  They did not have the particular Michelin maps we wanted there so our first detour was to FNAC where we found what we wanted with just a little help.  We have the two suggested maps for driving in the area, so John is feeling very confident.  We shall see.  After that we began our tour for the day. 

   First we went to the Palace Square and on to the Musee du Petit Palais.  It was interesting but we have seen a lot of religious art so we didn't stay there too long.  It was a good thing too as they close at 1pm, though we could have returned later in the day, we did not.  I mainly wanted to see the Botticelli painting they had and we did that along with the 15-16 different rooms.  From there we walked up to the park at the top of the hill behind the Palace of the Popes, Parc des Rochers des Doms, for the panoramic views of the Rhone River and valley, the broken bridge, the city, St. Andres Fortress, limestone covered Mont Ventoux, and much more.  While in the park we stopped at a sweet, friendly cafe and had an "American" lunch of a hamburger, chips, salad, and a coke light.  It was simple and delicious, though it was not as fully cooked as we expect our hamburger to be.  Now off we go down the hill to walk part of the ramparts and head out to St. Benezet Bridge.  However, after the walk down the mountain and ramparts we decided another detour on the tourist train was in order.  This departed and returned to the same spot at the bridge so that would work out well for us.  The ride was somewhat interesting, but walking gives better views and photographs, and keeps one more in touch.  This little train was fine for resting the feet though!  Now we were off to the bridge and the English audio tour that was included in the price.  Again, we had lovely views and impressive breezes from the center of the river. 

   After that we headed on the walk back toward the Palace of the Popes.  We detoured again at two fabric stores with kitchen linens that I wanted to inspect.  I selected a few towels I liked but still have a couple more shops to look in before I make a decision.  Now we are off to the Palace as time is growing short.  The tour was interesting, again an audio tour in English so one can go at their own pace.  However, we are getting tired and there are hundreds of stairs so we are somewhat relieved when the tour is over.  Now we have new decisions to make, what to eat for dinner? 

   We stopped at our first choice in restaurants but they do not serve until 9pm.  On to the next choice of cafes near our hotel.  We don't want to back track and want to stay in the correct direction.  We chose a pizza cafe in the open air and made our selections.  This was a three course meal again, but the portions were huge and we could not possibly eat all the food ordered.  We could have easily shared one meal, live and learn.  As we ate another couple came and sat next to us.  They were from Australia and after talking we discovered we are staying in the same hotel.  We are somewhat refreshed after eating but certainly ready to go to bed. 

The Passion Pass:  You pick this little booklet up free at the TI office.  As you visit sites listed in the pass you receive discounts.  We saved around E$20. today with it.       

Our Hotel:  It is a lovely and quaint place.  The establishment owners could not be more gracious or caring.  Our room is spacious and we have WiFi and all other comforts.   However, the hotel is noted in the book to be "12 quiet rooms" (see rooms in photo) and while the rooms might be quiet outside our window is anything but-young people late and night and delivery trucks for the pub next door in the morning.  However, we do not regret our choice and suspect a room in the back would be perfect.  At least we have double windows to close and keep the sounds out, but we also like the fresh air.  I love the lavender scents everywhere!

 

28 May-Perpignan to Avignon

   Our train departed at 8:40am so René said we should allow 20 minutes, plus 20 minutes extra so we did leave their home just before 8am.  We were there in plenty of time and they came in with us and got us on the correct train and off we went.  This was bittersweet for me as of course I do not know if I will see them again or not, but Lord willing we will.  We had a wonderful time, we are so thankful to our cousins for welcoming us into their home. 

   Our first stop was Narbonne where we had a two hour lay over to catch the next train to Avignon.  During our wait we had a nice cappuccino and baguette with cheese.  We had a banana that Odette gave us to take on the train already.  The time passed fast as we watched people and trains come and go.  There was one sleeper train that came from Germany with many people dressed in motorcycle outfits.  In addition, at the end of their train they had approximately 200 motorcycles and 50 classic cars.  Of course we have no idea what they were really doing but we could speculate that it was some sort of rally or something.  John walked up and down the platforms looking at all the different vehicles.

   Our train was a couple minutes late but it was not a problem and we boarded and rode to our Avignon  destination uneventfully.  I dozed most of the way other than waking at each stop.  John read the Rick Steves Provence book.  It was a very short walk, maybe 10 minutes, to the Hotel Boquiers and we were cheerfully greeted by Madame Sendra.   I say "Madame" but she is young, 35-40, and energetic.  We have a spacious, lovely room, the "Lavender" room, and we feel very welcome here. It is nice since I feel rather sad to leave the cousins and a bit homesick too.  We rested the rest of the afternoon, posted the blog, and replied to emails.  About 6pm we headed out for a walk.  We wanted to go to the TI (tourist information) office and get a couple of things but they were closed.  We will venture there first thing in the morning to get the free "Passion pass" which gives discounts into various locations  after the first time you use it.  There was a similar "passport" in the Perpignan area but we did not take advantage of this in time to benefit from it.  From there we walked around for about an hour and then went to Le Caveau Du Theatre, the restaurant we had decided on for dinner.  We planned to eat outside but before we ordered we decided to move inside because of the wind.  It was a delightful three course meal; John had an avocado and ham starter, mine was artichoke and various pates.  Our plat was pork for John and duck for me, both served with potatoes.  Dessert was glace (ice cream), three kinds with a cookie and some pieces of fruit.  We had Cote de Rhone red wine with dinner and an aperitif also made locally with our dessert.  We are stuffed!  So we walked back and now we are ready for bed.         

   About the rail pass:  I find it strange that we have been on a train with three different legs of a journey and only the first time we were even asked for our ticket.  That time they only glanced at our ticket and did not fill in or punch the rail pass.  I guess this should not be of concern but I hope no one will look at it and think we tried to sneak though without using the ticket or something.  Of course I have read that there are stiff penalties for getting on a train without the proper documents.  Interesting, and I will ask Rick Steves office about this process later, after we are home. 

 

27 May Perpignan

    Ah, the mountain is in view this morning!  After a relaxing breakfast we were off to see the center area of Perpignan, I would say "old town" Perpignan.  There is one very old section of the city wall that remains, but that is all.  There is shop after shop of anything you could possibly want from salt to formal wear.  I did find what I was looking for, the Porro to bring home.  Then we walked all around the city looking in interesting shops.  My favorite shop was a kitchen, fabric, and garden shop.  It is the same shop where René and Odette got the fabric used on their patio area.  It is a very heavy cotton fabric, almost like canvas with any color combinations you can think of. I wanted to buy something  but I was overwhelmed with the choices!  I would love to bring a lot of things home from that shop, it were 3 or 4 levels of all sorts of things.  It would have taken hours to choose and then calculate US to metric system to know how much fabric was needed!  I will have more time in Avignon for this and that was my plan to begin with. 

   Today we were able to take our wonderful hosts to a restaurant of their choice.  Odette chose a delightful French Cafe where we had a delicious three course lunch.  Odette has promised she will not prepare and evening meal if we have a big meal for lunch.  We had Caprese type salad with mozzarella tomatoes basil and lettuce, pork (galtes de porco) with vegetables and rice, and creme Catalan for dessert.  All of this was delicious.  With it was the house wine Dom Brial brand!  There is a story behind the name of this wine.  The people who own the vineyards and winery do not carry the Brial name, nor are they related in any way.  However, they chose this name because about 15 generations ago there was a Brial who was a priest and became a famous historian in his time and was called Dom Brial.  They chose this name because it is a well-liked, respected person and good to sell the product.  Incidentally, the wine was also good!  After lunch entertainment was René and John helping fellow push a car to start it...I am ashamed I have no photo to show of this event!  Sadly they were not successful but it was fun to watch!   

   While eating we noticed posters for Byrrh (pronounced "Beer") hanging on the walls. We asked about this and of course after lunch we went to the nearby town of Thuir and toured the Byrrh Caves (cellars) and had another wine tasting.  They have a cast that holds over 1M liters!  Again, René did a wonderful  job of translating all important things for our benefit.  The wines they sell are more of an aperitif.  I hope the bottle we bought does not break when we bring it home!  It has an apricot fragrance and taste and can be consumed as it is or in champagne.  I forgot to ask in what proportion to use it with champagne but I will try to ask René later. 

   I probably have not mentioned that every village and town in Europe has a war memorial.  On these memorials they list the names of men who have died in war, any war.  The small village of 45 people where our Rick Steves guide now lives has a memorial with just one name, but the Europeans take the losses very seriously and have a great respect for the lives lost by both their own and other countries.  Anyway, I say this to tell you that as we left the Caves Byrrh there was a memorial with the name Joseph Louis Brial who died in WWI.  René does not know of this  Brial but he was certainly some relative.

   After leaving Thuir we went to see Odette's brother  and wife, they are also near by in Baixas.  They have a lovely home neighboring on vineyards and have a small olive orchard right in their yard.  You can see they grow giant asparagus!  I am just kidding, of course it is cactus but it very much resemble a giant asparagus!  They also have a yard full of pet turtles,which their delightful granddaughter showed me when we arrived.  What a kind and gracious couple.  We didn't stay long and then we returned  to pack our bags and think about the trip for tomorrow.  René was kind enough to confirm for us with the hotel in Avignon and also to make sure the train was indeed running again since apparently there had been some sort of strike. 

   Odette also prepared a "small" evening meal for us if foie gras, fig, salad and a delicious sweet wine sort of like sherry to drink in a small amount with the meal. It is now time for bed and thinking about all we have done for the last three days and the kindness of René and Odette is overwhelming.  We will leave with the hope that we will see them again one day.                        

26 May Perpignan, Collioure, Banyuls, etc.

  Another French breakfast (chocolate croissant no less!) and we were off for the day.  Our first stop was Collioure, which is another lovely village on the sea. The wind is blowing and the water is rough but very beautiful with all the white caps.  The village is famous for anchovies, culinary excellence, wine, and olive oil.  In addition, one can walk and see many things such as a chapel, fort, windmill, and much more.  They still use areas of the fort by the water to train the French military, the Navy I believe, as a lot of the young men were wearing wet suits and some others had camouflage clothing.  We had a nice walk around the town and around 12:30 we headed for Banyuls just a short distance away.    

   In Banyuls we had a lovely picnic and after that we walked down to the sea and across the entire beach and then back through the town.  We tried to find the kitchen type store where we bought things before but we could not.  Most stores there  close between 2 and 4 pm and open again after that.  This is the Spanish influence of the area.  We walked back to Annie and Xuxu's home and then prepared to leave.  It was perfect but we did miss Annie and Xuxu being there. 

   Now René took us on an adventure up to the top of the mountain on  narrow country roads.  Both Odette and I were a little worried a few times but we had amazing views of the sea, villages, and vineyards.  Of course René is an excellent driver. amazing. We were very close to one of the signaling stations at the top of the mountain but one had to walk the rest of the way and the wind was blowing very hard so we did not attempt this. 

   When we are down from the mountains we stop in yet another village I cannot recall the name of and we get oysters and langistino for dinner, we are still full from lunch but again, we eat.  I must say these were the most delicious oysters I have ever eaten!  Then we walked around the area of home and now it is time for sleep.  I could write much more but I am tired and not thinking too clearly.  We had a wonderful day.    

 

25 May - Perpignan

   The program for our day began at breakfast at 8:30 am.  We had a nice French breakfast with delicious coffee Odette made especially for us, as they drink tea.  I am not sure of the exact time we left for  Fortress of Salses but we first stopped for a moment at a medical supply sort of store to get some shoes for Germaine, as she took a fall again and they think she needed new shoes to prevent slipping.  After getting the shoes we went to the Fortress and took a tour.  The tour was in French but with the flyer in English and René translating some of it we had a very nice visit there.  John was as impressed as I hoped he would be.  The fortress was constructed in the late 15th century between France and Catalonia and stands today in wonder with original status in most parts.  It is an amazing place. 

  From there we returned to the home of René and Odette and had a delicious lunch, it was approximately 1-2pm.  We had appetizers of anchovies and bread, then noodles  with meatballs and sauce, and pear tart for dessert, then coffee and a chocolate too!  After lunch Odette took the purchased shoes to Germaine and René took us on another outing to Elne, the cloistered Roman Cathedral and castle built 4-5 centuries before Christ.  I believe I am stating this correctly that this was build by the Romans under The Great Constantine in honor of his mother Helene, later becoming Saint Helene, and shortened to Elne some time after that; it was the Great Constantine, who under the Romans first declared Christianity to be a legal religion.  René believes St. Helena in Napa County is also named after this same mother of Constantine the Great, which gives us another connection.  This was an extremely interesting visit, even having bones of someone excavated and on display.  Many of the marble carvings were still very well preserved, though some had  been partially destroyed during the Revolution.  Remember the people were so poor, depressed, angry, etc. that they even defaced churches that they felt were associated with the power of Kings or royalty.  It is amazing that there is as much remaining as there is.  After this visit we took a different route back and stopped to watch a glass blower in another small village.  Then back to their home.  Odette had not yet returned but she did shortly thereafter and another meal was prepared.  At least I am allowed to help a small amount so I don't feel too bad.  I think it is a lot of work for them to have us here but they are very gracious.  Gazpacho and quiche, plus a variety of desserts was the meal.  I marvel at Odette's garden; it is lovely and I have taken many photographs of it.  We can see it keeps both of them very busy to have it as lovely as it is.  René states he follows her instructions, we all laughed at this as John does the same.  I am missing home after being here and wondering how everyone is? 

   After dinner we drove to a nearby lake, actually three lakes, and took a walk around the man-made area.  It is very nice with picnic facilities and such.  One area allows fishing and boats without motors, one allows swimming, and the third does not allow anything because it is a sanctuary for birds.  It is nice to have this peaceful area so close to their home, what a lovely place to live.